Diamond level in the jewelry store VS diamond level in the watch
The main difference between watches and jewellery is that watches are industrial products. They have good bezels, straps and dials. They are all manufactured according to the requirements of drawings, which is what we often say. The one carved out of the mold can't be changed after it is engraved. The gemstone must be selected according to this size. Therefore, the requirements for diamonds and gemstones are also very strict. It is impossible to insert the difference of zero or a few millimeters. Unlike diamonds used in fine jewellery, you can adjust the metal part by hand. When the diamond is large, it will be densely packed. If the thickness is too high, it will be inlaid lower, which will not affect the overall structure. However, the jewellery table cannot be adjusted, and its bezel is not adjusted. The dial will be deformed after adjustment, and the pointer may become stuck, or it may become uneven, affecting the appearance, and even interfere with the movement of the movement. Now we will break down from four aspects. First, the level of the gem Therefore, the diamonds used in the watch, each table size, thickness, cutting angle must strictly abide by the standard; unlike the diamonds used in high-end jewelry, you can manually adjust the metal part, the diamond is large and the size is dense Some, if the thickness is too high, it will be inlaid lower and will not affect the overall structure. However, the jewellery table cannot be adjusted, and its bezel is not adjusted. The dial will be deformed after adjustment, and the pointer may become stuck, or it may become uneven, affecting the appearance, and even interfere with the movement of the movement. In addition, the more advanced the jewelry, the less diamonds it has on the same plane, so it is allowed to use some diamonds with different levels and specifications, even if there are flaws in the inside, or the difference in the cutting surface is not harmful, from different The angle cannot be seen at all. However, for a jewellery watch, as long as there is a diamond with a low degree of clarity, such as a crack in the inside, you can see at a glance that there is a stain, because its arrangement is too flat. In addition, the inconsistency of cut and color is also obvious, which will affect the overall fire effect. Therefore, the watch must be used in the top of the diamond. The average standard is: the color must be above the G color, the clarity is above VVS1, and the cut is at least 3VeryGood. And the watchmakers like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet require higher levels of diamonds, and the clarity must be IF (absolutely flawless). As for the diamond jewels, the same rigorous standards are required. Second, the amount of gemstones In addition to the specifications, the overall number of jewels inlaid with jewels is also important. People who often buy high-end jewellery often form a fixed concept that the price of a fine jewellery is mainly determined by the size and color of its main stone, rather than the group of diamonds. It should be said that this concept is not fully applicable to jewelry watches. First of all, 99% of the jewellery watches have no concept of the main stone, only the group of diamonds; secondly, the group of diamonds are not large even though they are taken out, but its value is not low. In addition to the factors of good color, it is also determined by the particularity of the processing of gemstones. There is a particularly interesting phenomenon in the gem industry, that is, the same size of stone, the more you buy, the more expensive it is, and the more difficult it is to match. You buy things in other industries, such as buying Shoes, buying a pair is a price, buying 10,000 pairs is definitely cheap, because mass production dilutes the cost; you have to go to the wholesale market to buy, a pair of shoes may not be sold. But the gem industry is not like this. As long as you have certain requirements on the shape and specifications, you want a batch of identical diamonds, and its price is definitely high. Because natural gemstones are difficult to be completely suitable, they have to go from big to small, and it is impossible to grow from small to large. If the price of the raw material (original stone) itself is relatively fixed, and the specifications are not pursued, it is definitely the cheapest to go with the shape. If you are pursuing the specifications, as long as the amount is small, you can try to find some rough stones that are closer to each other. The yield is high and the price is acceptable. The most fear is that both the specifications and the large amount of demand can only be used to cut the original stone from the big to the small, and cut the big raw materials to meet the needs. Such prices will soar, and even a zero, which is ten times the price difference, is difficult for people outside the industry to understand. In addition, the more special the shape of the jewels used on the jewellery table - such as the diamond and emerald cut diamonds set on the bezel and chain, the higher the cost. And you have to wait, it won't be there soon. The gems are made by God. It is not artificial. You have to find the rough stone that is almost suitable in shape, otherwise it will become a violent thing. Third, processing and screening As mentioned earlier, the use of diamonds in jewelry and the use of diamonds in watches is completely different, but their processing and screening follow the same process. Whether it's jewelry or watches, the diamonds and gems they use are all ground by hand and then ground on the machine. Because the size of the diamond is very small, only one gram of diamond is used, and the diameter of the round diamond is only 4 mm. The hardness is high and the processing precision is high. It must be ground very accurately, and the hand can't reach it. If you use a machine to grind, usually hundreds of diamonds of the same size are ground at the same time. Otherwise, one by one, a table of dozens of pieces, hundreds of drills, do not know which life to grind. And machining with the same risk, there is a certain rate of wear. If there is a slight crustal activity in the process, people will not feel it at all, but it will affect the shape of the diamond, and the cutting will not be perfect. Therefore, countries like Japan with frequent crustal activities, even with precision processing technology and equipment, can not take this porcelain work. After the diamonds and gemstones are worn out, they are not finished. The real trouble is still behind. Because the original stone is ground, you can determine its level, see which color the bottom belongs to and whether it has fluorescence or so. The only way to screen the color is to rely on the human eye to divide it. Therefore, all the factories that make gemstone processing in the world have a large number of stone-cutting personnel. The only job they do is to color the diamonds and gemstones. Each person divides one or two thousand pieces per day, so the eyes of the people will soon Not good. The little girl who has a very good color discrimination is usually in the factory when she is 16 or 18 years old. When she is 20 years old, she is already an old worker, and her vision is reduced. A bunch of gems are there, ordinary people may not see the difference, but in the eyes of the people in the industry, you can see that there are deep, shallow. The white diamonds are good to say, if thousands of sapphires are put together, it is difficult to find the two colors exactly the same. There is a big difference between subdivision and non-subdivision. The subdivision is called MQ (MediumQuality) level, as long as the same color can be set up; the subdivision is called FQ (FineQuality) level. Like the jewellery table, the requirements for the color of the gemstone are particularly high, and it belongs to FQ. To be gradual, you must arrange them from deep to shallow. To be the same color, you must have the same color. It is very professional and can't be sloppy at all. In the gem industry, the price difference between MQ and FQ grade stones is another 0. If the MQ grade gem is a grain of 10 dollars, then the good FQ grade gem is a grain of 100 dollars. Of course, it is certainly not only this number, otherwise the cost of processing will not come out. Fourth, the inlaid craft & the ultimate pursuit With the ready-made gems, the test is the skill of the gem-setter in the watchmaking system. Limited by the structure of the watch itself: its metal part is thinner than jewels, and the 18K gold itself is relatively soft, and it is deformed with a little force, so the same setting method is used in the watch to raise the level of difficulty in the jewelry. Whether it is the more common nail setting or the cumbersome snow setting and hidden setting. The gemstone inlay on the jewellery table, the most common one is micro-studded – look to see it as a very small and very precise claw setting that requires a 20x microscope. Each gemstone has a thickness. In order to be inlaid on a metal structure that is only one or two millimeters thick, it is necessary to hold the diamond with a very fine nail. It has to have a good fire color, and it takes a lot of effort to use it. Language to describe. If you have the chance to try it, you know that under the high power microscope, don't say that the diamond is set on the watch. As long as the hand moves a little, the refracted light will be dizzy, exactly the same as the motion sickness. Therefore, only those who are particularly quiet can be competent, and those who are not calm can't do it. In France and Switzerland in Europe, the masters of jewelry are inlaid with masters. They have been inlaid with gemstones for a lifetime, and the craftsmanship has been in full swing. On the other hand, there are many factories in China that do high-quality jewellery, but there are few high-end jewellery watches, because it is more difficult, and people who are not calm, give up for a while, and never reach that realm. In the early years, Dr. Ren Jin, a jewelry consultant of the magazine, designed an ultra-thin table with diamonds for himself, and found a Piaget 9P movement inside; but in the diamond-studded part I was in trouble because I couldn’t find a master in the domestic jewelry industry who could put diamonds on such a thin 18K gold dial. In the end, there is really no way, you can only "break the game", using the laser spot welding machine in the jewelry industry to "sew" the diamonds one by one on the dial. Although the diamond is "inlaid", the dial can not be taken out. It is. The above four elements can be described by qualitative or quantitative, and the true and most valuable part is unqualified, that is, the pursuit of the ultimate. For example, to achieve a designer's design concept, you need to match the most vivid color combinations from thousands of gems; you need to use the rare materials or craftsmanship in the watchmaking world; you need jewelers to fight for hundreds of hours. No flashing can occur during the entire inlay process; even a special movement should be developed to match it. There are of course many jewel inlays in the jewellery table, but none of them are easy. It is a 0.5-carat and 1-carat gemstone set on the dial of the giants. It can't rotate if it's too light. It's too heavy and difficult to control the thickness. It's as small as a 0.001-carat micro-drill set on the pointer. The length is only 0.2 mm, and it is also gripped with metal claws... These inlays are even more demanding for hand-made than even the assembly of complex menus and the grinding of the movement. It can be said that making a jewellery watch itself is a supreme challenge to the watch and jewellery craft. If there is no challenge, it is not a good thing. If there is no challenge, there is no value. A really good jewellery watch, the difficulty of making it is the same as the final result, which we did not expect as a guest. If a high-end jewellery watch, its craftsmanship and effects are in your expectation, it can only be said that this watch has not yet achieved the ultimate. An innovative scientific and technological enterprise integrating design and development of shoe materials (soles), mold manufacturing, shoe materials (soles) production and marketing services; the company's technical research and development team, composed of more than ten masters, doctors and experts, has strong research and development technical force, and currently has dozens of rubber and plastic new material invention patent technology and utility model patent technology. With China leather and shoemaking industry research institute, we have jointly established "rubber shoe material research institute" and "zhidahang new material international research and development center". With "comfort, fashion and environmental protection" as the core consumption elements, the rubber leisure sole researched, designed and produced by the company has become the first choice of many leisure shoes brands and enterprises in China, and is highly praised and welcomed by customers and consumers in the industry. The products have always led the trend, fashion and direction of domestic leisure shoes market. Cooperate closely with many famous shoes brands at home and abroad; Shoe Sole,Bottom Of Shoe,Soles Of Shoes,White Sole Shoes Jieyang City Shuangcong Plastic Products Co.,Ltd , https://www.jyshuangcong.com
